Callier-Scollard Violins
Craig Scollard

50 E. Green St. Suite 142
Pasadena, CA 91105
(626) 795-2870

Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00-1:00.
Thu, Fri, Sat 2:00 to 5:00

Intercom Access Code, Press:
142 and then the CALL button:

Broken Cello Neck Repair – Structural Reinforcement Screw Method | Affordable Cello Repair

This customer’s cello came in needing significant structural work. The neck was loose and the back center seam had opened, both of which were repaired first. But once those issues were addressed, a more serious problem became clear. The neck had fractured at roughly a 55-degree angle, and it appeared that the only thing still holding it together was glue and the fingerboard itself. It was the kind of damage where the usual alternatives are either a very invasive repair or writing the instrument off entirely. Rather than give up on the cello, I decided to engineer a structural reinforcement that would stabilize the break and return the instrument to reliable playing condition.

Repair Options Considered

  1. Neck graft: This would be the traditional structural repair. However, the cello was not valuable enough to justify the time, labor, and expense of a full graft.
  2. Remove the fingerboard and inlay new maple: This approach would replace 80–90% of the cracked area. The concern was whether a previous repair had used epoxy, which would make proper gluing and structural integration unreliable and somwhat difficult to get the fingerboard off, and repair the crack.
  3. Replace the neck and scroll: Installing a different neck assembly was another option, but I did not have a suitable spare neck and scroll available for this instrument.
  4. Engineer a structural pin repair: Could the break be internally reinforced and stabilized to give the cello a second life?
  5. Discard the instrument: The final option was simply to write it off and send it to the dumpster.

Structural Reinforcement Repair Steps

  • Select the proper structural screw pin: Determine the correct diameter and length to provide maximum reinforcement without compromising surrounding wood.
  • Build a precision drill guide: Fabricate a guide to ensure the hole is perfectly parallel to the fingerboard and centered in the neck.
  • Temporarily secure the guide: Carefully align and lightly glue the drill guide in position to maintain accuracy during drilling.
  • Begin drilling with a flexible attachment: Use a shorter bit and flexible extension to establish the initial hole safely.
  • Complete the bore with a long drill bit: Extend the hole to approximately 90% of its final depth.
  • Remove the drill guide: Detach the temporary guide once the bore is properly aligned and complete.
  • Countersink the opening: Shape the entry so the screw head seats cleanly within the mortise.
  • Apply hot hide glue: Fill the hole with hot hide glue and coat the screw threads before installation.
  • Install the reinforcement screw: Drive the screw carefully into position, ensuring full engagement.
  • Why use hide glue? While the screw provides the primary mechanical strength, hot hide glue penetrates and stiffens the surrounding wood fibers, reinforcing the threads while remaining traditional and reversible if future work is ever required.
  • Modify the screw head: Grind the head slightly so it matches the angle of the scroll mortise.
  • Finish the mortise interior: Fill and blacken the mortise to restore a clean, traditional appearance.
  • Reinstall the nut: Glue the nut back in place to complete the repair and restore proper string alignment.
  • Final cleanup: Refine and finish the back of the neck for proper feel and appearance.

 

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This type of internal reinforcement only works when the break occurs in a favorable location and the surrounding wood remains structurally sound.


Overall, the neck now feels very stiff and secure. Because there isn’t excessive bending force at the top of the scroll, the reinforcement screw acts much like a truss rod inside the neck. Combined with the glued joint and the support of the fingerboard, the repair should hold up for many years, a far better solution than discarding the instrument.

 

While the repair involves several careful and precise steps, it is ultimately a straightforward structural solution, which allows me to keep the cost in the $40–$50 range. I always find it satisfying to engineer a practical fix that gives the instrument a second life rather than see it discarded.

 


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